Source: Star-News, Wilmington, N.迷你倉C.Oct. 28--Cut the fat. Cut the sugar. Cut the salt.As recently as 15 years ago, recipes for a "new" spin on soul food largely focused on health issues such as diabetes and obesity, often sacrificing flavor in the process. But the discussion of today's African-American foodways has evolved, along with the rest of our nation's dining dialogue, into a more nuanced and complex examination of both historic traditions and evolving tastes suitable for a sustainable future.The term "soul food" is thought to have originated in the mid-'60s, and some of today's cookbook authors, historians and activists have taken issue with the point of view that paints the soul food diet as inherently unhealthy."The most important thing is that people complicate their understanding of what soul food is, because it easy to say that it's the bane of African-American health," argues Bryant Terry, author of the 2009 book "Vegan Soul Kitchen" in filmmaker Byron Hurt's 2013 documentary "Soul Food Junkies." "The bigger cause of the decline of African-American health is the industrialization of our food system."Hurt's documentary, which turns both a compassionate and critical lens on the cuisine he grew up on, found the director gobbling down stewed turkey necks in Jackson, Miss. -- despite years of meat-free living -- in an effort to better identify with the people he filmed. His efforts earned a Best Documentary award at the American Black Film Festival and an airing on the PBS "Independent Lens" program.The choir is far from limited to the voices of Terry and Hurt. Adrian Miller recently penned "Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine," which examines the roots of a distinctly American tradition. Miller notes that blacks have contributed to Creole, Low Country and other regional styles, but that the interior South is the soul food ground zero. And despite the statistically higher rate of illnesses that can at least partially be attributed to what can be a high-fat, high-salt diet, Miller argues that soul food has unfairly earned a bum rap.Fish, leafy greens, protein-dense legumes, sweet potatoes -- these are all the building blocks of the soul food diet, and exactly what nutrition experts are encouraging Americans to consume more of. Miller, a former attorney, mounts a hearty argument in defense of the cuisine, fingering as the culprit problematic preparations (deep-frying, for one) that leave those vibrant foods in a leaden state.Terry, Hurt and Miller have made the regular media rounds in numerous interviews. But one particular program has emerged as the landing pad for some of the most interesting discussions of contemporary black food."Hot Grease," hosted by the non-profit and internet-based Heritage Radio Network (.heritageradionetwormini storage.com), is just one of dozens of shows the network broadcasts online, both live and as a downloadable podcast. Nicole A. Taylor, a Georgia native now living in Brooklyn, frequently gives her sponsors an on-air "Southern-girl's hug." And, for 162 episodes, she's engaged a wide swath of guests from numerous backgrounds, but prominent voices from the African-American food community are a regular staple.Don't worry. None of this evolution means giving up the good stuff. Even traditionalists can find comfort in the iconic and frequently lambasted fried chicken in this updated look at soul food. Norman King, a food editor with Southern Living magazine and recent "Hot Grease" guest, earlier this year published "The Way to Fry: Fresh," recipes for the modern Southern cook. A registered nutritionist, King bucks the trend and writes that technique is to blame if a fried dish comes out overly oily; a better understanding of what's happening in the pan can make sure chicken stays on the menu.Culinary historian Michael Twitty, a scholar with a complex background as both an African-American and devout Jew, took a stab at defining soul food on "Hot Grease.""Soul food is not slave food, and it's not necessarily West African food," he said. "Soul food is the cuisine of the great-grandchildren of enslaved people."The great-great-grandchildren continue to shape the cuisine's evolution.Paul Stephen: 343-2041Twitter: @pauljstephenCitrus Collards with RaisinsWhen it comes to modern interpretations of soul food, few recipes are more iconic than Bryant Terry's Citrus Collards with Raisins Redux. Rather than simply reducing the richness from fatback, he takes the nutritious vegetable in a new direction while paying tribute to the traditional heritage of braised greens. Terry demonstrated and served this dish during a visit to the University of North Carolina Wilmington in early 2012.-- Paul StephenCitrus Collards with Raisins1 pound of collards, ribs removed and sliced thin1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil2 cloves garlic, minced1/2 tsp salt2/3 cup raisins1/3 cup freshly squeezed orange juiceBoil three quarts of water in a large pot. Add greens and simmer for six to eight minutes until just tender but still bright green. Drain greens and rinse with cold water, pressing away most of the moisture.Heat a 10-inch saute over a medium flame and add olive oil. Add garlic, cooking until fragrant, less than a minute. Add, collards, raisins and salt, cooking for three minutes. Add orange juice, cooking for an additional 15 seconds before removing from heat. Makes four large servings.Source: Adapted from recipe by Bryant Terry.Copyright: ___ (c)2013 the Star-News (Wilmington, N.C.) Visit the Star-News (Wilmington, N.C.) at .starnewsonline.com Distributed by MCT Information Services儲存
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